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Hey all, I have a bad front right wheel bearing on my 2001 Elantra GLS. I have an appointment to have it done by a garage next Thursday, but I was wondering if anyone here has done it themselves. If so:

What tools were required?
How long did it take you?
Could you possibly give me a step by step how to?

Thanks. I just need this info so I can decide if I can do it myself or not.
 

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I just need this info so I can decide if I can do it myself or not.
Maybe a better question is: SHOULD I attempt to do this myself ?

If everything goes right, you probably CAN......but what if something goes wrong in the middle and you can't get it all apart or back together ?
Do you have alternate transportation for a day or two ??
 

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Maybe a better question is: SHOULD I attempt to do this myself ?

If everything goes right, you probably CAN......but what if something goes wrong in the middle and you can't get it all apart or back together ?
Do you have alternate transportation for a day or two ??
I've done enough suspension and brake work to feel confident that I could get everything apart and back together no problem. I know it's only a few additional bolts and nuts to get the hub assembly out, I just want to know if the job can be done at home by an average guy with average tools.
 

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I done mine and it basically takes a few hrs. You have to find a shop and have the bearings pressed. You are gonna need a big ass socket to take the wheel hub nut off. I don't exactly remember but I think it was about a 32mm.
 

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I done mine and it basically takes a few hrs. You have to find a shop and have the bearings pressed. You are gonna need a big ass socket to take the wheel hub nut off. I don't exactly remember but I think it was about a 32mm.
32mm seems about right, I think sometimes they can be 30mm or even 34mm. A breaker bar would help to turn it too.

Would you be able to post a "DIY"?
 

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32mm seems about right, I think sometimes they can be 30mm or even 34mm. A breaker bar would help to turn it too.

Would you be able to post a "DIY"?
This is old, but I'll post for future readers.

If you can replace your brakes, you can do MOST of this. I'll note the trouble areas.

Issues:

1. You need to remove the "hub". Most of this is just removing bolts and nuts like most other things.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the brake caliper.
4. Remove the brake mounting hardware.
5. Loosen the tie rod bolt. Do NOT bang tie rod threads. This is a trouble spot for the average DIYer. The tie rod (and also the bottom control arm bolt) have VERY delicate threads. You cannot bang on these.
6. You'll either need a tie rod tool (rentable from most auto parts stores). You can google-search for just that part.
7. Get the out tie rod outside out of the hub. Again, use the proper tool. This is sometimes very difficult to get it out without damaging it. BTW: I think mine was a 17mm. Regular wrench can be used.
8. Loosen the bolt holding the hub to the lower control arm. Again, this is the same kind of bolt as the tie rod end. VERY delicate threads. Very hard to remove without damaging. Do NOT bang the threads.
(BTW, On the tie rod and control arm bolts....You can loosen the nut and get the nut to where it is flush with the end of the bolt to kinda protect the threads....another way to think about this is .. .take of the nut completely, put the nut back on and start threading it on..and when the 'hole' in the nut is gone (by the bolt coming up into it), stop there.)
9. I think the lower control arm nut was 19mm. In a pinch, I think a 3/4 wrench will work. The 3/4 only works because the nut on the lower control arm (and on the tie rod nut) are NOT on super tight. Something to remember during reassmbly. This is also why the tie rod nut has a cotter pin)
10 Loosen the great big main nut (that holds the spined cv joint inside the hub). This is a HUGE nut, 32 mm. 1 1/4 wrench will work in a pinch IIRC. You probably do NOT have this nut. It is huge. You'll need a breaker bar or a 3-4 feet piece of metal pipe to get enough torque on this nut.
11. Loosen the top 2 bolts/nuts that hold the hub to the strut. Remove bolts.
12. Remove the outer tie rod from hub.
13. Now you have enough done to get the hub out of the car.

PS On the front right wheel, there is a speed sensor. Follow the cable up the inner fender and find its connection-joint. You do NOT remove the speed sensor from the hub. You follow the cable up and disconnect the cable. My cable-connection (connection joint) was just inside the fender inside plastic. Be careful disconnecting. The plastic gets brittle over time.

All of that is 1/2 of the removal. The second half is getting the bearing out of the car.

This is the part that the average DIYer will struggle. I'm not even going to write instructions......because most people don't have the tools (wheel bearing press) to do this.

So you have a cross road here. You can do all the above and then take the "hub" to a garage and ask them to just replace the bearing. This is what I do most of the time. I save money by doing the steps that I can. And leave the hardest part to a place that has all the correct tools.

You can try to remove the wheel bearing from the hub. Its a two part process. You gotta remove the wheel-holding-piece (the thing that has the lug bolts on it) from the inner part of the wheel bearing. Then you gotta remove the wheel bearing from the hub. The first part is hard. The proper tool is a wheel bearing press. Some people hammer the heck outta of it...but even that sometimes won't work for the DIYer.

My advice. Don't do it.

OR, do the parts you can, and leave the actual wheel bearing part to a garage/shop.

I have replaced a few wheel bearings over the years........but every time, it is a fight and very frustrating.

You MUST be able to not have your car for a few days. So if you cannot live without your car for a few days...do NOT do this repair yourself. You probably will get "stuck" on the wheel bearing if you try it yourself. I'm just warning you.

I fix alot of stuff on my own car. if you done this repair a few times...it is possible. but the first time you do it and if you do it without an experienced person.......it is a tougher repair.
 
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