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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I just did a timing belt, water pump, all accessory belts, coolant flush, oil change, ATF change, plugs, and wires on my girlfriends 2006 Elantra 5-door hatchback. I, of course, disconnected the battery while performing the maintenance. Everything went well until I reconnected the battery. I had a check engine light because I started the car with the thermostat unplugged to do the coolant flush. I knew that light was coming and I have cleared the fault. But, I have other issues that are puzzling.

1. The blower motor doesn't work. I have checked out the entire circuit and I have proven the wiring good throughout the system. The switch panel is good. The relay is good and operating. The resistor network measures to the correct ohms. But the fan won't run. In the engine compartment where the power for the circuit comes through the 30 amp fuse, I only have about 2.5V on the side coming from the bus. This is also the voltage I see at the relay and also the fan when switched to high. Is that the proper voltage on this circuit? The Haynes manual is vague when talking about the transistor circuit inside the fan motor. If 2.5 V is all I'm supposed to see on this circuit, the fan transistor network is bad and I'll replace the fan. If I should see the full 12V at the under hood fuse panel, I know I have something to fix there. The fan worked just fine before the battery was disconnected. I did run a straight 12V from the battery to the fan and it certainly didn't seem to run as fast as it should. Just weird it doesn't work after simply disconnecting the battery. Can somebody pull their 30A fuse and tell me what voltage they have at the under hood fuse panel please?

2. Also, part of this same problem is I can't select the A/C. The green light on the button flashes when I turn from off to on and have MAX A/C selected. I'm assuming it's related.

3. The ABS light is on. How do I reset this? I went to auto parts store to reset the check engine light and the only fault was the thermostat high resistance code. I reset that and the check engine light went out. There were no other codes or faults visible through the OBD-II port.

4. The parking brake light is on.

5. The battery light is on dimly. I see a solid charging indication on the battery when the voltage is looked at with the engine running. I don't believe there to be an issue.

None of these lights or issues existed before I disconnected the battery. And then they all did. What do I do to reset all this stuff?? The car runs and drives fine after the service. All other electrical systems pass ops check.

Thanks in advance your replies. I need help and I'm too cheap to take it somewhere! I'm a capable home mechanic and good with electronics. But, this stuff has me baffled. If I had better info this would be a different story, but the Haynes manual only says so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'm an idiot. After stepping back and evaluating how many problems there were, it had to point to one source. The 120A was so blown it looked connected on my scans of the under hood fuse panel. Not to mention it sits a bit off to the side of the rest of the fuses. Replaced and ops check good. On everything.

Just goes to show taking a step back and some time away can work wonders for a clear head. Girlfriend happy. I'm a hero.
 

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I'm an idiot. After stepping back and evaluating how many problems there were, it had to point to one source. The 120A was so blown it looked connected on my scans of the under hood fuse panel. Not to mention it sits a bit off to the side of the rest of the fuses. Replaced and ops check good. On everything.

Just goes to show taking a step back and some time away can work wonders for a clear head. Girlfriend happy. I'm a hero.
I learned that the hard way too. Sometimes we just need to take a breather and just start with diagnosing these issues starting with the cheapest and easiest things first, like a fuse, relay, etc.

Good to see you figured things out in the end.
 
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