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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi!

I replaced my steering wheel coupler by watching this youtube video.

After putting everything back, there is no power to my air conditioning or to the fans.

I checked one fuse under the hood for the air conditioning and two fuses under the steering wheel and they all look good.

I triple checked and everything is plugged in.

Can anyone please advise?

I had to drive from LA to SD yesterday for 3 hours in a heat wave. It'd be nice to drive back with some cool air 馃槄

Thanks in advance!
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update:
I used a test light to test the fuses in the fuse box to under the steering wheel to the left.
Random ones worked fine, but the ones going to the AC and fan were not working.
How do I find out where the power comes from to those fuses?
 

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2013 Hyundai Elantra coupe SE
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Often the battery is the source of all the fuses power. It's goes like....
Battery--->fuses---->relay(if any)---> components.
Have you try simply disconnecting the battery and reconnecting?

Does you whole climate control not working? Is off when you set it to high and/or low temp and fan speed? Cuz it sound like your blower motor might be shot.

Check the Blower fuse (1st column, row 4 on the pic you're showing).
If that fuse is good then check the blower fan (often is behind the glove box) and check if you get power in the connectors.
If there is power in the connector, could be a bad motor.

Best of luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Often the battery is the source of all the fuses power. It's goes like....
Battery--->fuses---->relay(if any)---> components.
Have you try simply disconnecting the battery and reconnecting?

Does you whole climate control not working? Is off when you set it to high and/or low temp and fan speed? Cuz it sound like your blower motor might be shot.

Check the Blower fuse (1st column, row 4 on the pic you're showing).
If that fuse is good then check the blower fan (often is behind the glove box) and check if you get power in the connectors.
If there is power in the connector, could be a bad motor.

Best of luck
Thanks for the reply Spectre90!

I had to leave the car at my dad's and he's been troubleshooting for me while I've been traveling.

I sent him your post to review and it looks like he's done all what you've said.


Dad's troubleshooting:


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"
As I told you previously the current issue is with the blower relay socket. Namely pin 86 has no power although pin 85 has ground. Pins 85 and 86 make up the trigger (coil) circuit of the relay. The load circuit pins 30 and 87 works as indicated by the by passing test of the blower.
since the relay socket is in the relay and fuse junction box, I intuitively thought of dissembling it, which is a big undertaking. However after reading the heater diagram, mainly the blower motor below, I saw the power is provided through the fuse from the dash fuse box. Thus I should focus on the connection between the blower fuse and pin 86 of the relay socket. This morning I was so confident that I should have found the continuity between the dash blower fuse terminal and pin 86 so that I just need to find the power issue from the ignition switch side as shown by the diagram."
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Unfortunately, I couldn't confirm the continuity between the fuse and pin 86; nor the power to the fuse terminal as we found before. It appears that I need to disassemble the dash fuse box to pin down the discontinuity, which could be a big job as the fuse box concerns so many wires.


We are now both curious about my previous question:

"There is a white open female connector behind the fuse junction box. However I couldn't find the male connector goes into it. Did you ever unplug a connector from the fuse junction box at all?"

Maybe I didn't plug something back in?
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see 5:58 - 2013 HYUNDAI ELANTRA Clunk in the Steering. Coupler Replacement. You Fixed It

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Thanks for any more help you can give 馃檹
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright, since I got no more help, my dad took the car to the shop.

Dad:

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I remember seeing a spark when I was plugging everything back together.

Next step is for me to try to find a Junction Box in the junkyard instead of paying $691.53 for the part MD012F1C01811G5A, which the shop is quoting.

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OUCH!!! We would never have been able to diagnose that over the internet. Honestly, you might just unhook the battery and bull the box. It could be a bad trace/wire that can be fixed once it's out of the car.
Bad thing is, if it isn't one of those you'll either not have a car until you find one or you'll have to put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OUCH!!! We would never have been able to diagnose that over the internet. Honestly, you might just unhook the battery and bull the box. It could be a bad trace/wire that can be fixed once it's out of the car.
Bad thing is, if it isn't one of those you'll either not have a car until you find one or you'll have to put it all back together.
Understood. It was my dumbass fault for putting everything back including my LED lights without unplugging the power.

I bought a fuse junction box off ebay for $120.

I'll let ya'll know how it goes 馃
 
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