I went outside and got the dreaded clicks ... towed to the dealer, they said it was the battery and the replacement would cost $285 + taxes & labor, and it only has a 2 year warranty. Is there anything special about the battery? The guy on the phone said he wasn't really sure what the difference is, but thought it had something to do with it being packed with glass or something?
Duralast makes one for $160 with a 5 year warranty, so I'm planning to just go with that.
My only worry is the little fuse box thing that is attached to the positive terminal, I've not had a car with this before, so I wasn't sure if it required anything special from the battery itself.
From what I've been able to find (the factory battery had no stickers to help me, had to rely on my own research), the factory battery had these specs:
AGM 70L-DIN / 70 Ah 20 HR
760 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
610 Cranking Amp (CA)
The Duralast replacement would have these:
650 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
810 Cranking Amp (CA)
I live in NC, 1 snow a year usually, so I'm assuming the cold cranking amps won't matter? Will the higher cranking amps matter to anything? I'm not sure what the "AGM" is, or if that matters to the bottom line?
Any help or advice is appreciated, wanted to make sure I wasn't screwing up anything in the box attached to the battery.