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2006 Elantra turns over but does not crank

6K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  josephmauldin3 
#1 ·
I was hoping someone may have some ideas that can help me track down what is going on. I have a 2006 Elantra Limited 2.0L. When I first got it, it had a blown head gasket. Easy enough I replaced the gasket and replaced the head because it was warped. It ran for a few days but then had an electrical short from a hot wire that was lying loose in the trunk that I did not know about, and blew a whole bunch of sensors and relays. Now it just turns over but does not start. It has no codes either.

I pulled the fuel rail and the injectors are shooting fuel. I pulled the spark plugs out and they are sparking. I have checked the MAF sensor and it is good and measures within specs. I checked the TPS and it is good and measures within specs. I have pulled each individual fuse and looked at it and even checked continuity on them. I have tried jump starting it from another vehicle. I have tried cranking it on its own. Turns over and over just never starts...

These are the parts I have replaced so far. Some were replaced before the short and some after.
Neutral Safety Switch - replaced after short
Camshaft position sensor - replaced after short
Crankshaft position sensor - replaced after short
Ignition coil - replaced before and after short
Spark plugs - replaced before short
Spark plug wires - replaced before short
Fuel pump -replaced before short
Fuel filter - replaced before short
Fuel pump relay - replaced after short
ECU relay - replaced after short
Fuel injectors - replaced before short
Water pump - replaced before short
Knock sensor - replaced after short
Oil Control VVT Valve Variable Valve Timing Solenoid - replaced before short
Idle Speed Air Control Valve - replaced before short
Oil Temperature sensor - replaced before short

Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I am very stumped!!! I was thinking maybe another relay that could be bad and keeping it from starting but I have no other ideas what to check. Thanks in advance for any help!!!
 
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#2 ·
Hi Joseph....

In your post you said that you replaced the head gasket and head because it was warped. How were you able to determine if the head was warped? If the head was warped there could also be engine block damage. What it sounds like to me is the engine was not timed properly after it was reassembled when the head job was done. When you replaced the head did you used the original cam shafts or did you put a new complete assembled head on the car? I would pull the motor, put it on an engine stand and pull the timing cover and check your timing marks. Even one tooth off and the vehicle will not start....if it did start it would run like crap...good luck
 
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#3 ·
The way I found that the head was warped. Was when I put the new head gasket on it was still leaking water. I had checked the block with a flat bar and some filler gauges. I forgot to check the head when I pulled it off to make sure it was flat. I ended up replacing it with a new head and cam shafts and VVT. It was running fine after that no leaks or anything. But as I mentioned it had 2 hot power wires in the trunk from the previous owners amp that I didn't know were there and live. That shorted the whole car out. I have replaced a lot of bad electrical relays and components. But I don't know what I could be missing that could still be blown that would be causing this crank but no start. Yes I have rechecked the timing twice since then to make sure everything was TDC and that it didn't move. So far it has been holding good. I have not replaced the battery because I was still getting 12V from it. But I did have the thought that since it was smoking after the short that it might not be putting out the correct cranking amps to start the car. Again I'm stumped.....
 
#4 ·
Finally got life!!!

Turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator and I had three bad spark plugs. Even though I could see fuel coming out the injectors I guess it wasn't enough to get the car going. The spark plugs were new before the short. I guess it messed them up some how... When I pulled them out I could not see a spark but I could hear it popping. I just figured since it was bright outside I couldn't see the spark. When I tested them with the multi-meter three were bad. So all four got replaced. :)

I also found why they took the bulb out of the airbag warning lamp on the dash. Turns out there are two airbag codes. B1378 and B1448. So on to figuring those out.
 
#5 ·
Glad its alive....what type spark plugs did you install? I can check the airbag codes for you when I get to work Monday, be able to tell you exactly what they are.
 
#6 ·
The spark plugs I got were Bosch 6702 Platinum Spark Plug https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KR8L4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the airbag codes taken care of. After testing I found the airbag control module was bad. I picked up a used one from the junk yard. I replaced it and one of the codes went away. When I pulled the module it looked like someone had spilled a drink over it. Very nasty, I had to clean the plug well for the new one I put on. I still have the B1448 code but it is the seat mat on the passenger side which is bad. (Apparently a common problem with these models). I picked up a seat from the junk yard but I got the wrong color so I have to go back and trade it out. After that the other airbag code should be gone. I saw a lot of emulators online for about $60 that would get rid of the B1448 code. But a seat from the junkyard was $25 so I went with the cheaper route.
 
#8 ·
Having spent time in Korea while in the Army I got the chance to tour their Hyundai manufacturing plant. I had an engineer tell me the engines are bench tested with NGK spark plugs, that's all Hyundai uses period. Hyundai engines are tested and programmed with the parameters produced using NGK plugs. Makes no sense to use
anything else.
 
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